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.The island was roost on the islands dotted around the gi- of 18th-century gold coins.In 1876 another Suwarrow if you haven t cleared customs.later known as Motu Ngaongao (Lonely Is- gantic lagoon, which is large enough to sink visitor found Spanish coins dating from Speak to the atoll managers, in Tom Neale sland), and was still uninhabited when the Rarotonga with room to spare.It contains the 1600s.Where these caches came from old house on Anchorage Island, when youAmerican whaler Nassau visited in 1835 and rich marine life, from sea turtles and coconut has never been satisfactorily explained, but arrive.They ll charge you US$50 for a two-lumbered it with its present name.crabs to tropical fish and sharks.It s also one other evidence of an early European visit week stay (and US$5 per day for every dayThere were brief periods when Nassau of the few accessible lagoons in the Northern signs of habitation, skeletons and various after the two weeks).Note, this is just anhad a permanent population.A group from Group, making it popular with yachties.artefacts have also been unearthed.The anchoring fee; you can t stay onshore.Manihiki lived there in the 1860s, and an Two atoll managers live here for half theAmerican farmer attempted to grow coco- year, monitoring the thousands of birdsSUWARROW STORIESnuts and other plants in the 1870s.Other that breed here, and ensuring that visitingTom Neale wasn t the first writer to live on, and write about, Suwarrow.American-born Robertshort-lived European attempts to farm the is- yachties behave themselves.The managersDean Frisbie survived a terrible cyclone here in 1942 and wrote of it in Island of Desire.Althoughland were made in the 1910s, 30s and 40s.live in Neale s old house on Anchorage Is-the lagoon is large, the scattered islands of Suwarrow are all very small and low-lying, and theFinally, in 1945, the island was sold by the land; one room still furnished just as it wasFrisbies only survived the huge waves whipped up by the cyclone by tying themselves to alast of those farmers, to the New Zealand back then.There s nowhere to stay on thecoconut tree! Frisbie s daughter Florence Johnny Frisbie wrote about the same cyclone in Thegovernment for £2000.The government island, and you re unlikely to be grantedFrisbies of the South Seas.sold it back to the chiefs of Pukapuka for permission to stay anyway so your onlyPartly inspired by Frisbie s writing, New Zealander Tom Neale perhaps the world s mostthe same figure, and on 2 June 1951 a party option if you want to visit is to hitch a ridefamous hermit first moved to Suwarrow in 1952, living alone on the island, in the buildingfrom Pukapuka landed on Nassau, reclaim- on a yacht or private boat from Rarotonga.abandoned by the Kiwi coast-watchers, for two years.He returned from 1960 to 1963 as theing their suburb after several centuries.government-appointed island caretaker, and his classic memoir An Island to Oneself was publishedGroups from Pukapuka, working the coco- HISTORYshortly afterwards in 1966.Neale returned to Suwarrow in 1966 and remained there until 1977,nut plantation started in 1945, have become In pre-European times, Suwarrow was vis-when he was evacuated from the island after complaining of severe stomach pains via inter-islanda virtually permanent population.They are ited by Polynesian voyagers (remains ofradio.He died soon afterwards, and is buried in the cemetery beside the Returned Servicemen samong the most isolated of Cook Islanders, their camps have been found), but a per-Association, opposite Rarotonga s airport.although the island is used as an unofficial manent settlement was never established.stopoff for some Asian fishing vessels.It is thought that the atoll was the landT H E N O R T H E R N G R O U PTHE NORTHERN GROUPPassage © Lonely Planet Publications160 www.lonelyplanet.com© Lonely Planet Publications.To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitallyrestricted.In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposesonly.In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it toeveryone you know, or resell it.See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of sayingthe above - Do the right thing with our content.THE NORTHERN GROUP
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